Saturday, 28 May 2011

Timber Store.

I recently bought a house, and one of the things that got left behind was a 16'x8' shed/garage. I've decided that it will make a good temporary timber store, and if it lasts me a couple of years I will be happy. I was going to buy a shipping container for this purpose, but when this shed came up I thought what the heck I'll use this. It's cost me about £20 for some 2x2 sawn to replace all the bottom bearers that were shot to bit's, a mornings work to get it down,  and re-erect.

I haven't had a chance yet to rack it out, but will be doing so next week. Anyway here's what it looked like before.

So a little bit rough, and ready. Transported and worked on the back of a trailer..

You might be able to see the rotten bottom bearers...if you look carefully.

And in it's new home next to my workshop.

I've placed the whole thing on pallets so air can circulate underneath, I'm having racks both sides, and a centre walkway made from ply. I'm also thinking of keeping sheet stock in there to free up some space in my workshop. As you can see there's still a bit of work to do, and I need to treat it with some kind of preservative. But not bad for a mornings work and a little money, plus it will give me some much needed space back in the workshop. Thanks for looking.

Friday, 27 May 2011

Ash Wardrobes Finished.

Just got the pair of European Ash wardrobes fitted and finished today. The clients were very happy and have asked me to quote for other work, and have recommended me to some of their friends. Anyway here's a few pic's...

Unfortunately you can't really see the large field I applied to the door panel and drawer fronts, It was very bright in there with a large window behind me when I took the snaps. So you will have to take my word that they look good...... Thanks for looking, and have a great weekend guys :-)

Sunday, 22 May 2011

Drawer problem.

I have a small problem on the ash wardrobes I'm making, both of the robes are being fitted into alcoves, but one of these alcoves is 250mm(10") smaller than the other. The wardrobes must both look the same from the front elevation, which means internally on the right hand one, there is an odd dog leg to fit a pair of drawers into.

Here you can see my drawer box dry fitted, the internal corner with exposed dovetail joinery, hand-cut of course.

And the finished drawer on Accuride runners, one fitted to the side as normal, the other fitted to the bottom of the drawer bottom. When fully extended there is a bit of play, so I'm going to fit another runner to the bottom.

Here you can see the under-mounted drawer runner, there is enough room to place another to the right of the existing.

I did think about having a normal drawer, and letting the drawer front sail over. But thought that that was a bit of a cop out, and decided on this course of action. As it turned out it only took perhaps a couple of hours longer, and the clients have an extra 1.5 cubic foot(approx) of storage. They also have some funky dovetails to look at when they open the drawer.

The drawer fronts on this wardrobe are joined together with a piece of face frame stock in the middle, this will look the same as the other wardrobe except for having two large drawers instead of four.

There is still a bit of cleaning up to do on these drawers and to make the bottom drawer front also, but they are more or less finished, thanks for looking.

Friday, 13 May 2011

Large fielded panels.

I made this post yesterday, and its disappeared? I will try to write it again similar..

I've been working on the panels for the doors, that are going on the Ash wardrobes for the last couple of days. They are having a large field applied to them, I was going to make a jig for them to ride through my thicknesser. But as it turned out they have ended up 40mm wider than my thicknesser can handle. I decided I would make a jig for the router to do them instead.

Glued the panels up a couple of nights ago..

Planed the backs because after they have been fielded it will be difficult, then left them cramped up overnight to minimise movement.

Then set about making the jig, its a piece of mdf the same size as the panel, with two bearers for the router to ride on, set a bit higher than the panel. There is also a wedge one end to give me the required angle, in this case 1 degree.

You can just make out the the angle.

I need something substantial with no flex for the router to ride upon, I settled on a piece of 8x2 with a hole drilled in the middle. I have also fitted a collet extension to the router.

This needs a couple of batons attached to act as stops, so the router doesn't eat into the side bearers.

After I did the length I repositioned the panel in the jig to do the width.

Short video of the CNC router in action.

Sorry about the jerky camera work at the end, if anyone knows of a FREE idiot proof video editor let me know.

And everything would of been fine if I'd just planed these up and called them done, however hindsight is a wonderful thing, and I should of looked at today's date. I decided that the field wasn't showing enough so thought I would alter the angle to give myself a more of a pronounced field....However taking a couple of mils off proved far from sensible, when this happened...

And a nice close up of the damage.

The last panel to do as well, it just wasn't seated enough on the jig by about 5mm. I've managed to rip one half of the panel away and replace, its glued up ready for the morning(couldn't face it tonight).
Thanks for looking, have a good weekend:-) 

Tuesday, 10 May 2011

Timber selection.

OK I've been machining some European white ash today, and thought I would speak a little bit about how I select timber for doors.
   When I look at timber for doors I want it to be straight and flat, with no twist or bow along its length, or cup through its width. I don't use any timber that has any hint of these problems, I don't just hope that I can machine these faults out. I want the timber to be as straight as possible in its raw state before I select it for door stock, I've found this to be the best way of ensuring your door will stay flat and not twist. First of all I check for twist with my winding sticks, these are made from Brazilian mahogany that I ripped from one piece about 20 odd years ago. If the timber passes this test, I place the board on its edge and check for bow along its length, if it passes its taken in to be cross-cut then ripped over-size by 10mm.

Here's an example of a piece of timber that wouldn't be suitable for door stiles, yes you could plane it flat and it might stay that way, but there is an element of risk that I'm not willing to take.

Here you can see what happens to timber when initially it passes the test, but when cut tensions are released,  it bent badly, and this is rejected for doors. I would not use this timber for short rails on doors either.
 But I will use it for short lengths on face frames where its glued to the carcase, or perhaps short drawer rails so its not totally wasted. The boards I have selected for the doors are about 200mm wide and are cut through and through, this means the two outside edges if ripped off, are rift-sawn. The middle is kept to be joined for drawer sides. I allow 40% wastage on square edged boards, and 100% waste on waney edged stock. I like to have more timber than I need, to enable me to select the best stock for my furniture. This is not a boast for me to tell my clients "I only use the best stock" I use it because down the line, I want my furniture to still be functional, and not have problems.

Oh and a bit of an update on these ash wardrobes I'm making, the face frames are made, sanded, and dry fitted. I have also machined, glued up, and sanded some show ends to the two inner sides. These panels are chamfered at the intersection of the face frame. The face frame will not be beaded on this wardrobe, any embellishments will have more of an angular theme to go with the large flat field of the door and drawer panels. 

Thanks for looking.

Sunday, 8 May 2011

Ash Wardrobes.

OK I will not be doing a step by step on this project, as its all old ground that I've already covered in previous posts. However there will be some elements that you might find interesting on the door and drawer panels, they are to be fielded from the centre of the panel, and will need a couple of adjustable jigs to be built. Here's how the panel will kind of look like...

And here's how far I've got since yesterday.

As you can see the drawers in the right hand one won't be straight forward, so I might cover the construction and fitting of those. I think I will also talk about timber selection and how I machine and deal with problems in the timber. Anyway thanks for looking.

Friday, 6 May 2011

Fitting the painted robe.

Fitting time for the painted wardrobe....I kinder knew it would go OK, as I checked all the walls previously for level, and they were flat but 5mm out. So I didn't need to scribe much off, opting to just plane to the line.

Started with the base, I cut the carpet up.

Then the underlay.

I then needed to cut a section of skirting away to make room for my base.

The base is then fitted and checked for level, it was running down into the corner 12mm!

This is then packed to a good level.

And then fixed.

I need this to be perfect for the doors to fit into the face frame.

Then its just a case of stacking boxes and fixing discreetly as you go.

Bit like Tetris.

Just need to scribe this end, and glue and fit the face frame.

Fit the doors and drawers.

And its done.

Thanks for looking, have a great weekend.